Glossary: Fabric & Lace.



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 Fabrics & Lace.

Fabric

Brocade
Charmeuse
Chiffon
Crepe
Damask
Duchesse Satin

Dupioni
Faille
Gazar
Georgette

Jersey
Matelassé

Net
Organdy
Organza
Peau de Soie
Satin
Shantung
Silk
Silk Faced Satin
Taffeta
Tulle
Twill
Velvet

Lace

Alençon
Appliqué
Battenburg
Chantilly Lace
Dotted Swiss
Guipure
Ribbon Lace
Schiffli
Soutache
Venise

Alençon
The most often seen lace on bridal apparel. A net lace with swags and flowers which are re-embroidered on their edges with a very thin cord. It is available with or without sequins or beads. The edges are often left with small threads sticking out.
Battenburg
Lace made by forming loops of linen and connecting them with threads. Patterns may be floral or geometric circles and ovals. It is also used on tablecloths, linens, towels, and doilies. It is usually only available in white or ivory.
Bengaline
This fabric has a ribbed look. It may be woven from silk, cotton, polyester or rayon. Also called Faille.
Bias Cut
If you look closely at most fabrics, you can see they are woven on a grid pattern (the warp and weft). Fabric is usually cut straight across these vertical or horizontal lines. A cut is made on the bias when it is made at a diagonal to the warp and weft. Typically, fabric cut on the bias moves and drapes very well.
Brocade or Damask or Jacquard
Brocade  A heavy fabric woven to achieve a tone on tone pattern. Often the pattern is a floral or ribbon design. A lighter weight alternative to brocade is damask. This is sometimes referred to as Jacquard.

Damask A fabric woven to achieve a tone on tone effect. Patterns are often floral. It is lighter weight than brocade. Sometimes referred to as Jacquard.

Jacquard A loom which makes it possible to control each warp thread so that each and every warp end can be raised or lowered at will to form an intricate design. Originally controlled by a punched card system sometimes called the first computer, today the loom is fed by computer generated information that eliminates the cards, making design changes faster and more efficient. Sometimes referred to as Brocade or Damask

Caviar Beading
A method of adding small beads to fabric. Remember when you were little and would make a design in glue then sprinkle glitter on it? That's pretty similar.
Chantilly Lace
Lace made of fine net with embroidery of flowers, ribbons, scallops often edged in a very thin cord.
Charmeuse
Essentially lightweight satin. It is often a blend of silk or rayon. It is very soft against your skin.
Chiffon
A sheer fabric, chiffon is very light weight and fluid. It is often used in a color layered over a heavier fabric. It also used as a background for embroidery, appliqué or beading.
Crepe
Very thin, light weight fabric with a slightly uneven surface. The surface is a little like the surface of an orange only finer. Crepe is typically made in silk or polyester.
Crepe de Chine
French for "Crepe from China." Unlike standard crepe, this is made of silk and tiny bumps or irregularities.
Crushed Velvet
A velvet which actual looks like the nap has been crushed in varying degrees. It gives a shimmering effect which can be quite elegant and modern.
Dart
A dart creates a curve in the fabric and allows the fabric to conform to the shape of the body. The darts in a garment are what make the garment fit. The adjustment of darts for varied shapes is crucial to proper garment construction. The most common places for darts are in the bust and buttock areas.
Dotted Swiss
A lace created on a chiffon or fine net with very small circles (dots) of flocking. It is typically layered over another, heavier fabric or may be used in veils.
Duchesse Satin or Silk Faced Satin
Also known as Silk Faced Satin. This satin has a soft luster. It may be 100% silk or a polyester blend.
Dupioni
Typically 100% silk, this fabric is woven will fibers of varying thickness. It has a slubbed or rough finish with a slight sheen. It does have a tendency to wrinkle. Technically, it is a silk yarn reeled from double cocoons or two adjacent cocoons in which silk is intertwined. Shantung is a similar, lighter weight fabric.
English Net
A fine soft netting with one or two way stretch commonly used in bodices, sleeves and train insets. Should not be confused with tulle.
Eyelet
Either a fabric or lace of light weight cotton with holes "poked" in it. The holes are finished at the edges with thread. Other small floral patterns may be embroidered in the same thread across the fabric.
Faille
This fabric has a ribbed look. It may be woven from silk, cotton, polyester or rayon. Also called Bengaline.
Gazar
Similar to organza, gazar is a sheer, stiff fabric.
Georgette
Similar to Crepe, but without the sheen.
Guipure
A lace with large repeating designs, usually circular, with geometric or floral centers, connected by threads. Essentially, a very heavy Venise lace.
Illusion or Net
1.)A semi-sheer net-type fabric, Illusion is often used for skirts and in some veils. It may also be called Net or Tulle. 2.) Any style neckline which is covered with chiffon or netting.
Lyon Lace
Similar to Alençon, but lighter weight with a thinner cord, giving a more delicate appearance.
Matelassé
A pattern is woven into the fabric, giving it something of a quilted appearance.
Moiré or Taffeta
Moiré  A taffeta fabric with a watermark (wood grain) pattern woven into it.

Taffeta A stiff, medium weight fabric usually made of polyester or a blend. It is widely used in bridal gowns, bridesmaid dresses and prom gowns. It is easily recognized by the crisp, swishing sound it makes as you move. It has a medium sheen. See also, Moiré.

Organdy
A semi-sheer, stiff fabric made of cotton.
Organza
Very similar to chiffon, but heavier.
Peau de Soie
French for "skin of silk." As the name suggests, this is a silk fabric. It is actually a heavy, dull satin with a slightly ribbed texture.
Rayon
When silk was in short supply during W.W.II, the military developed rayon as a substitute for parachutes! Typically it is blended with other fibers, such as polyester.
Ribbon Lace or Soutache
A lace formed by sewing ribbon in a pattern over a fine net background. Also called Soutache.
Satin
The most popular fabric weave for wedding gowns. It is typically woven from polyester or silk. It is noted for having a very dull side and a shiny side. There are also matte satins available.
Schiffli
Very light weight lace on a net background with an all over embroidered design, which may be floral, geometric or random. All over, intricate, intertwining, decorative pattern embroidered onto the surface of English net or tulle giving a light, airy appearance, usually with a border.
Seam Allowance
The area of fabric that is between the seam stitching and the cut edge. This would be relevant to the maximum amount a seam can be let out
Shantung
A fabric woven usually of silk, shantung has a nubby, flawed looking texture, very similar to Dupioni, although it is a much lighter fabric. It is also available in polyester.
Silk
The most popular fabric for wedding gowns. It has a beautiful hand (feel), is soft and has a beautiful luster. It is produced by silkworms, primarily in China. Weave types for silk include Dupioni, Duchesse, Peau de Soie.
Tulle
A semi-sheer net-type fabric, Tulle is often used for skirts and in some veils. It may also be called Net or Illusion. A fine netting of tiny hexagonal mesh. Commonly used for wedding veils and skirts of gowns. Should not be used in bodices and fitted sleeves as it tears easily and will not give with the body. Use instead English netting.
Twill
Similar to Faille. It is a fabric with diagonal woven pattern.
Velvet
A widely used fabric in apparel and homes. It has a short cut pile to it. Velvet has a thick, soft nap, hence the term "feels like velvet." It is available in silk and other fibers. See also, Crushed Velvet
Venise or Venice Lace
A lace with varying thickness of thread to create floral, geometric and floral designs. An embroidery-style heavy lace not attached to net or any other background. Each motif is attached to the next by thread. May be cut into motifs/appliqués or used all over. May be cotton or rayon (rayon gives a shiny appearance).

Click on Bridesave.com/glossary  to check out their glossary of terms. Excellent source of information.

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This page was last updated 03/17/04 • This website, page, and all information contained are Copyright 2004 by Tina Amberg.  All rights reserved.